Asante Sana Kilimanjaro !

On my return flight Jo'burg last year, I read an article on climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in the flight magazine. I was allured by the majestic beauty of Africa's peak & the world's highest free standing mountain. My travel bug was aroused after seeing the snapshots & I added yet another destination to my immortal wish list.

My African trip to Malawi didn't materialize in July and I'm still remorseful about it. Instead of swimming in the serene waters of Lake Malawi, I made it to Ibiza in July - a perfect antithesis ! The travel God's have been very kind this year - Kilimanjaro came about a lot sooner than expected. I didn't really plan on going this year, but Insha'allah it just happened. I'm back to the grind after spending three weeks in Tanzania & a successful expedition to Kili in August :-).

Here's my anecdote...

I had a 100 reasons to set foot on Kili.  It's Africa's highest peak - the continent I adore, worship & can live all my life in. Africa is a perfect "Another time-Another world" setting with its timeless beauty, ancient landscapes & teeming wildlife which have been unchanged for thousands of years. The perfect way of expressing my fondness towards Africa would be to climb it's biggest mountain !

Most of my previous travels have been hedonistic in nature & this time I wanted to step beyond my comfort zone. I wanted to test my mental, physical & emotional barriers. I also desired to be in a state of solitude and disconnect myself completely for one week. Aquaterra Adventures were leading a maiden expedition to Kili in August'10 - I thought it was now or never ! My cousin Ruchit agreed to join me without any hesitation.

Kili is the poor man’s Everest. You can climb almost 20,000 feet in seven days & that makes it the "McDonald's" of  seven great summits in the world. Mt. Everest @ 29000 feet will make most people poorer by 2 months of time, 1 year of training, dozens of permits and cost $60,000.

 I was apprehensive as I lacked any previous mountaineering experience & had never been to high altitudes. I did a village trek in the Himalayas in 2009 - but there were no steep inclines &  it was almost like a scenic walk in the countryside.  My physical endeavours in Mumbai were limited to gym workouts & battling the half marathon once a year.

Kilimanjaro is a gentle climb as it inclines very gradually. But high altitudes, freezing temperatures & ferocious winds make it a difficult. Acclimatization is essential, and almost everyone suffers from some degree of altitude sickness. The primary reason why climbers fail isn't physical fitness - it's altitude sickness. If it strikes, climbers suffer discomfort like shortage of breath, nausea, hypothermia and headaches. Read more on altitude sickness here.

The weather conditions are extreme & gear required is extensive. The gear is expensive & not easily sourceable in Mumbai. I ordered most of my stuff online from REI.com in the U.S. It's a great store for outdoor enthusiasts & next time I won't bother to look any further. I got acquainted with two girls who were ardent trekkers & a journalist from Mumbai who had signed up for the same expedition. They had previously done the Everest Base Camp. We all ended up meeting and spent a couple of Sundays doing warm up treks in the Sahyadari Hills near Mumbai.

The moment of truth had arrived and I was excited, nervous, hopeful & scared as bid farewell to my family. I was flying to Nairobi followed by a connecting flight to Kilimanjaro. While we were flying, I got a my first birds eye view of Kili from the plane window. The skies was very clear so the view was spectacular. The mountain was perched adjacent to me & I couldn't believe that I was going up there. After landing in Kilimanjaro, we drove for an hour to a village called Moshi & arrived at our hotel. We had our first meeting that night for the climb briefing & introductions. Our expedition had 20 climbers, 2 head guides, 5 assistant guides & 60 porters. The group was very diverse with people from several nationalities, varied professions & the age group ranged from 25 to 65.

We met our head guides Chombo from Tanzania & Avilash from India. Chombo had lead several expeditions to Kilimanjaro & by now the climb was a leisurely stroll for him in the neighbourhood park. Avilash had summited peaks higher than Kili. He spends more time in the Himalayas than at home! The guides advised that the success mantra was simple – “Eat well, Sleep well & drink 4-5 liters of water”. On the mountain we were advised be on a diet constituting complex carbohydrates & snacks like chocolates, nuts & nutrition bars.  The other key was to climb "Pole Pole" as they say in Swahili. The translation is “slowly slowly.” Climbing "Pole Pole" was key to acclimatizing as we rapidly gained altitude.

The next morning we loaded our convoy post breakfast. There are several routes that go to the mountain and we were taking Rongai route. It was a three hour drive to the park gate - almost near the Tanzania-Kenya border.We passed  through a lot of villages, towns, and farms, past forests, coffee and banana plantations. We reached the park gate post lunch & began our registration process. Once you are inside the gate - there are no roads, electricity, shops or air rescue. I called home for the last time as the network coverage on the mountain is unreliable. As I entered the gate, I simpered at the "points to remember" sign at the park gate and initiated the journey.

The next seven days were a life changing experience - everything from the friendships built, my personal struggles overcome, learning to value the little things in life &  the brutal summit night !

Watch out for Part II of my story...Coming Soon !!!

(P.S. - All images by Jayant Sasikumar & Sanjeev Ganju)

Una comida Perfecta !

Food is an integral part of travel! When we travel, we're eating out all the time. However, most of food we eat is mundane and easily forgotten. But once in a while, we experience a meal which is remembered, treasured and cherished for many years. I call it "the perfect meal". A perfect meal is not necessarily a gastronomic delight at a fancy restaurant. I have dined at a few award winning restaurants, but frankly none of them would make it to my list of a perfect meal. Of course the food has to be delicious and the ambiance appealing...but there's more to it.....

A good meal is more than just food. It's about love. It's about the company and sharing the food with the loved. It's about the vibe of the location and the culture that reflects in the food. It's also about the authenticity of the food and the passion of the chef. It must be accompanied with moments of joy and paired with the right booze.

I had a rendezvous with a perfect meal exactly a month ago - it was my second day in Spain. The company couldn't be better than of close friends  & the location better than Spain. I love the tapas tradition in Spain of going to a restaurant and sharing small snacks & sangria with a group of friends. Our meal was a tapas lunch at a traditional Catalan (region in Spain) countryside restaurant, on the outskirts of Barcelona.  During the forty five minute drive, we passed by quaint villages and charming casitas. The restaurant was perched on a mountain top, and as we neared the summit it almost turned into a dirt road. We were all starving, but our hearts assured us that the wait would be worthwhile !

As we entered the restaurant - we didn't notice a single tourist. It seemed like a family owned restaurant filled with Spaniard's enjoying their siesta time. I loved the aura of being in the hills, after aimlessly wandering around the crowded streets of Las Ramblas in Barcelona on the previous day. The restaurant wasn't very fancy but filled with character, rustic and full of old world charm. They had a working farm and a kitchen garden in the backyard and all the ingredients were locally sourced.

The lunch wouldn't be possible without Vishal - my friends cousin living in Barcelona who is very passionate about his food . Before meeting him, we thought "vegetarian tapas" was only an oxymoron ! But he guided us to this place and many other authentic eateries in Barcelona. After meeting him, we were dining like locals !

We ordered and re-ordered a lot of food and everything was crafted to perfection. A lot of it was a twisted version of Indian or Italian food but still very satisfying.  I've actually tried to pen down what we ate & this should be a good guide for adventurous vegetarians. After we learnt the lingo, we tried tapas at many other places in Spain, but none of them met the benchmark.

Gazpacho: Gazpacho is a chilled tomato soup. You then mix cut cucumbers, onions, peppers, vinegar and herbs in the soup.  It was healthy, refreshing and light !

Pan Con Tomate:  Spanish version of the bruschetta.  You basically rub a clove of garlic and a squeeze a ripe tomato smoothly but with energy over the house bread. Then you add some salt and olive oil. I enjoyed the do-it yourself part.

Patatas Bravas: The Spanish classic - fried potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce. I'm actually not a big fan of potatoes.

Champiñones al ajillo: Mushrooms lightly sauteed with garlic, olive oil & sea salt. They actually infused the olive oil on top of the mushroom. Another version is "setas al ajillo" which are wild mushrooms lightly sautéed in garlic and olive oil.

Esparragos Verdes a la Plancha: Grilled fresh asparagus with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. This was my favourite tapas.

Pimientos Padron: Small green peppers from Padron (region in Spain) fried with extra virgin olive oil & sea salt. Gave me reminiscences of "vagharela marcha" in traditional Kathiawadi food.

Paella de verduras: A rice prepared with seasonal vegetables and white wine. It's almost a fusion between Indian biryani and Italian risotto. It was served on a huge platter - big enough for four people. We had put in the request for a vegetarian paella one day in advance. This was really the highlight of the meal, but we couldn't eat too much a lot since we were overstuffed with the tapas.

Sangria di Cava : Sparkling sangria, prepared with cava, fresh fruit and our special spirit mix.A perfect accompaniment.

"The time to enjoy a European trip is about three weeks after unpacking." ~ George Ade, Forty Modern Fable

Up, Close & Personal

I never imagined safaris were addictive – until my trip to Kruger Park, South Africa. No sooner than I got back, the desire to go again was irresistible. So I visited Pench national park in India and was rewarded with my first wild tiger sighting. And now I can’t resist going back to other parks Africa again & get up, close & personal with the wildlife !

The ultimate safari experience is to stay in traditional tented camps. The camps don’t have any fences and are within amazing proximity to nature and wildlife. You sleep in a tent, under the trees with only the canvas between you and the bush. Hearing the hippos, lions and hyenas at the back as you go to bed is an unforgettable experience. During the migration season, millions of zebra and wildebeest arrive to share the fertile land with the permanent inhabitants.

While these camps never let you forget that you are in the wild, there is a wave of chic and contemporary glamping grounds in Africa. They offer a very bespoke experience as they are very boutique – usually only 10 tents.Each camp has a central mess (meeting) tent & its beautifully furnished with grand sofas, lamps, book and corner cabinets in old wood, chests and rugs. Meals are served alfresco or inside the mess and all guests are invited to sit together with the naturalist at dinner time.

It’s a unforgettable experience to wake up in your tent, being spoiled by your private butler and sipping early morning tea while being surrounded by the great migration !
Showcasing two of the finest tented camps in the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania - Lemala Camps & Asila Africa Camps. Both of them operate several campsites, so you can stay with the same operator as you move around the park. Remember that the Serengeti National park alone is 15000 square kilometers !

Lemala Camps

Lemala is a collection of seasonal luxury camps set in stunning wilderness areas. The owner of Lemala camps is a friend of mine, so I'm sure the camps will be friendly and hospitable like him :) . But without any bias, Lemala camps are situated in the most exclusive game viewing locations - probably better than any other camp or lodge in Tanzania. This is because Lemala camps are “mobile” so the camp actually moves each season depending on the wildlife in the area.

(All Images via http://www.lemalacamps.com/ )

 Asilia Africa

Asilia Africa also operates several luxury camps in Tanzania. Although their camps don't seem mobile like Lemala, they are in good game viewing locations & far away from the main tourist trails. Each camp has a different name but all are very intimate & personal. I especially liked the “Sayari” camp.

(All Images via http://www.asiliaafrica.com/ )

 

 

P.S. - Oberoi Vanyavilas  in Ranthambhore National Park has been rated as the No. 1 hotel in the world for 2010 by Travel and Leisure magazine - I couldn't disagree more. The Vanyavilas is an excellent property - but India should be renowned for its palace hotels and not safari camps ! In any case I would vote for the Taj Banjaar Tola in Kanha Park as the best safari lodge in India.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover”

– Mark Twain

How much information is too much ?

The Internet has fundamentally changed the way we travel. In the 1990's, there were rarely any resources available to make travel plans, find information or make online bookings.  Travel research was  restricted to word of mouth, travel guide books and the conventional travel agent. However in the last decade, there has been a paradigm shift in the way people travel. Travel is definitely becoming less impromptu.

You can go anywhere in the world - without physically going there. You  know everything before your departure - what you will see, do, hear or eat.

The travel agents work profile has gone for a toss. Instead of giving useful travel advice, his sole means of survival is by finding you a quote lower than  the Internet.

Google the remotest island is the world and the results will make you feel it's right in your backyard. Login to facebook & there's a good chance a friend has already been to the destination and posted so many photos that you've already seen everything.

Hotel websites have scrupulous information. They mention everything -  the dimension of your room to the minutes it will take to get your ass to the beach. Review websites like tripadvisor take you one step further by giving you free advice on picking the best rooms in a  hotel or a warning on the number of cockroaches you are likely to spot in the room.

Technological tools are invaluable, and they help us eliminate the uncertainties we are likely to face. In fact, as a confession - I'm a big slave to all these Internet tools. But off-late I have been facing a dilemma.

I love to travel because of the adventure that bundles with it - seeing something new, eating something weird, meeting strangers, sleeping in unexpected places and doing everything possible that shocks me. With so much data at the doorstep, unexpected events hardly take place! The adventure is definitely diluted.

The internet is a boon for travel - almost impossible to avoid. But let's try and draw a line somewhere in order to arouse the impulsiveness in travel !

 “A good traveller has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” – Lao Tzu 



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Miss You Malawi

May is a popular month for the Indian diaspora to initiate long haul trips or freeze future travel plans. U.S and U.K maintain their dominance as top overseas destinations for the season. For domestic travel, Ladakh wins hands down. Since the last couple of months, I've been courteously helping my folks design their holidays. Some have returned from their trips and I've been enviously listening to their travel flaunts.

So where am I going this summer ? I will confess that some other time. Right now, I will share with you my utterly remorseful story - a holiday that was called off.  This summer I was adamant on spending a few weeks in two landlocked countries in East Africa - Zambia and it's erotic neighbour Malawi. Africa's profound beauty and striking landscapes have always enthralled me.   Apart from the fact that these countries met my preferred prerequisites, I also fantasized an enlightening Another time, Another world feeling - the crux of my wanderlust. I've never been to these nations and the urge was ballooning inside me. I had finally decided to take the plunge this July.

(Images via http://www.kayakafrica.net/ & http://www.kayamawa.com/)

This was going to be an epic holiday - full of adventure and almost like a dream come true. After landing in Africa, I planned to ditch my comfort zone by avoiding taxis/flights and restrict myself to public transport. (dont compare African public transport to London underground). Even though distances are long, slow travel is an ideal way to enjoy the vistas and watch the people of remote Africa. Transport is a mix of public buses (these buses don't follow a fixed schedule and depart only when they are fully stuffed), "matolas" (an informal African pickup truck where people and cows together are piled at the back) and some hitchhiking (a legendary sport).

Zambia has a lot more offer and deserves a dedicated post, so I will only focus on Malawi here. Malawi's biggest attraction is "Lake Malawi"- a stupendous freshwater lake stretching for over 300 miles and occupying more than 20% of the country. Lake Malawi is contained between tall rift valley mountains and has the similarities of a sea - except the fact that it's surrounded by landmass and contains fresh water instead of sea water. The lake could be confused with a tropical island with its turquoise water and sandy beaches under clear blue skies. It's especially famous for the brightly coloured little fish called “Cichlids”. Malawi is also called the "heart of Africa" and Lonely Planet ranks it as the friendliest nation in the world.

There is plenty of accommodation for all budgets available everywhere around the lake which stretches through the country like an inland tropical sea. However the hot spot for most people on the lake is the vibey "Cape Maclear". It's a stunning beach on the turquoise shores of the lake, encircled by granite boulders. Many activities are available: you can kayak out to one of the nearby islands, scuba dive-snorkel, or just laze around on the beach.

The best way to get there is to fly to Lilongwe - the capital city (Kenya Airways, South African Airways and Ethiopian Airlines connect there). After reaching Lilongwe you could either take to taxi ($200 each way to Cape Maclear in around three-four hours) or if you are patient enough use public transport (it could take up to one full day). A beach holiday in Malawi coupled with a Zambian safari is a terrific mix. It's advisable to plan well in advance since tourist infrastructure is limited and prices are sky high.

 Kayak Africa is an adventure-safari operator specialising in sea kayak and small boat safaris on Lake Malawi. They also operate two luxury camps on Mumbo Island and Domwe Island. For a romantic getaway, it's definetly the Kaya Mawa Lodge. Most of these pictures are courtesy to the Kayak Africa and Kaya Mawa website. Another option is to stay at the Gecko Lounge. It's laidback with fantastic food and a well stocked bar & they host the biggest parties on the lake.

(Images via http://www.kayakafrica.net/ & http://www.kayamawa.com/)

 

Sometimes life demands us to suppress our passions in order to fulfill other objectives. It was my turn this time and the trip was called off. Miss you Malawi....We have unfinished business !

"It's the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it. "



Greg Anderson