Miss You Malawi

May is a popular month for the Indian diaspora to initiate long haul trips or freeze future travel plans. U.S and U.K maintain their dominance as top overseas destinations for the season. For domestic travel, Ladakh wins hands down. Since the last couple of months, I've been courteously helping my folks design their holidays. Some have returned from their trips and I've been enviously listening to their travel flaunts.

So where am I going this summer ? I will confess that some other time. Right now, I will share with you my utterly remorseful story - a holiday that was called off.  This summer I was adamant on spending a few weeks in two landlocked countries in East Africa - Zambia and it's erotic neighbour Malawi. Africa's profound beauty and striking landscapes have always enthralled me.   Apart from the fact that these countries met my preferred prerequisites, I also fantasized an enlightening Another time, Another world feeling - the crux of my wanderlust. I've never been to these nations and the urge was ballooning inside me. I had finally decided to take the plunge this July.

(Images via http://www.kayakafrica.net/ & http://www.kayamawa.com/)

This was going to be an epic holiday - full of adventure and almost like a dream come true. After landing in Africa, I planned to ditch my comfort zone by avoiding taxis/flights and restrict myself to public transport. (dont compare African public transport to London underground). Even though distances are long, slow travel is an ideal way to enjoy the vistas and watch the people of remote Africa. Transport is a mix of public buses (these buses don't follow a fixed schedule and depart only when they are fully stuffed), "matolas" (an informal African pickup truck where people and cows together are piled at the back) and some hitchhiking (a legendary sport).

Zambia has a lot more offer and deserves a dedicated post, so I will only focus on Malawi here. Malawi's biggest attraction is "Lake Malawi"- a stupendous freshwater lake stretching for over 300 miles and occupying more than 20% of the country. Lake Malawi is contained between tall rift valley mountains and has the similarities of a sea - except the fact that it's surrounded by landmass and contains fresh water instead of sea water. The lake could be confused with a tropical island with its turquoise water and sandy beaches under clear blue skies. It's especially famous for the brightly coloured little fish called “Cichlids”. Malawi is also called the "heart of Africa" and Lonely Planet ranks it as the friendliest nation in the world.

There is plenty of accommodation for all budgets available everywhere around the lake which stretches through the country like an inland tropical sea. However the hot spot for most people on the lake is the vibey "Cape Maclear". It's a stunning beach on the turquoise shores of the lake, encircled by granite boulders. Many activities are available: you can kayak out to one of the nearby islands, scuba dive-snorkel, or just laze around on the beach.

The best way to get there is to fly to Lilongwe - the capital city (Kenya Airways, South African Airways and Ethiopian Airlines connect there). After reaching Lilongwe you could either take to taxi ($200 each way to Cape Maclear in around three-four hours) or if you are patient enough use public transport (it could take up to one full day). A beach holiday in Malawi coupled with a Zambian safari is a terrific mix. It's advisable to plan well in advance since tourist infrastructure is limited and prices are sky high.

 Kayak Africa is an adventure-safari operator specialising in sea kayak and small boat safaris on Lake Malawi. They also operate two luxury camps on Mumbo Island and Domwe Island. For a romantic getaway, it's definetly the Kaya Mawa Lodge. Most of these pictures are courtesy to the Kayak Africa and Kaya Mawa website. Another option is to stay at the Gecko Lounge. It's laidback with fantastic food and a well stocked bar & they host the biggest parties on the lake.

(Images via http://www.kayakafrica.net/ & http://www.kayamawa.com/)

 

Sometimes life demands us to suppress our passions in order to fulfill other objectives. It was my turn this time and the trip was called off. Miss you Malawi....We have unfinished business !

"It's the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it. "



Greg Anderson

L'affaire Goa....

Goa is the premier spot on every Indian’s holiday list. My first trip was with family and a bunch of cousins during school vacations. I vividly remember my first lessons in swimming and making sandcastles on cavessolim beach. Then came the college years, when the sole purpose of Goa was to drink, dance and celebrate in North Goa till wee hours of the morning.  
 
After I started dating, Goa turned into a girlfriend getaway. I shifted my loyalties to the serene beaches of south Goa where evenings were spent watching sunsets and sipping chardonnays. Post-wedding, a Goa holiday was about cocktails at the pool bar and getting immersed in a good book on the sun loungers.
 
We all love Goa and it’s an integral part our lives. But for some reason in the past couple of years, I haven’t been intrigued by Goa. After a decade, I feel perplexed by the thought of getting intoxicated and aimlessly club hopping all night (forgetting that I have been been there done that many-a-times!!).Surprisingly, I have been behaving absurd lately and trying to restrain myself from alcohol. As I continue to be spoiled at an exponential rate, I now find Goa resorts monotonous.

What the hell is wrong with me ? Why can't I enjoy like everybody else ? So has my initmate affair with this beach laden  state come to an end ? Fortunately, there is a missing piece of the puzzle and it will bring me back! I recently realized that the popular hippie central is an excellent spiritual getaway. A host of yoga retreats in Goa have sprung up if you seek a holistic experience or if you are looking for an unusual holiday. I have been trying to gain information on a yoga holiday in Goa, and here is my summary.

Yogamagic Eco-retreat

Every resort boasts about its eco-friendliness and I vouch that most claims are frivolous. Yoga Magic accommodation is in luxurious Rajasthani style eco-tents with thatched roofs. It's an excellent example of glamping. Yoga Magic is impressively eco-friendly with solar panels, eco-composting toilets, paths made with pressed cow dung and buildings made from stone and bamboo.

Residents bathe with fresh well water from clay urns. Yoga Magic has specially designed smell free eco-composting toilets. These toilets use mango woodchips and effective micro-organisms to return everything back to nature. There’s a naturally filtered swimming pool centered around a small island with waterfalls and streams.

Yoga classes are held in the yoga temple every morning and evening along with  meditation, chanting and satsang. The food at Yogamagic is organic and Indian fusion vegetarian. Yoga magic is not a dedicated yoga center, but an eco-friendly resort offering yoga and wellness activities. However with its environmental initiatives, it’s the most authentic eco-retreat I have ever come across. Tent tariffs start at Rs.2750 and yoga classes are Rs.300 per session. http://www.yogamagic.net/.

Lotus Yoga Retreat

Lotus Yoga Retreat is a beachfront yoga retreat with onsite accommodation in quaint South Goa. Their eco-friendly beach huts made out of bamboo, palm leaves and straw. They offer daily morning-evening yoga and meditation classes which are free for all residents.

There also conduct special yoga retreats where yoga masters from around the world focus on particular forms of Yoga. The retreat dates are declared well in advance giving you ample time to make arrangements. Yoga classes are held on a large yoga shala overlooking the ocean or alternatively a smaller mountain deck. Resort prices start 40 Euros per person and include accommodation, one meal and daily yoga classes. The retreats are individually priced depending on the duration and the teacher. http://www.lotus-yoga-retreat.com/.

The Bhramani Yoga Center

The Brahmani Yoga Centre offers daily classes in Ashtanga,Vinyasa Flow,Hatha,Pranayama,Meditation, Kundalini, and Restorative Yoga and offers teacher training programmes. A precise schedule is printed on their website so you can choose in advance the form of yoga you wish to practice. Each class focuses on one form so its an excellent choice if you want to focus on a specific form.

They center has no accomodation onsite, but several resorts in Anjuna are easily accessible. Yoga classes are walk-in and no reservations are necessary. The classes are Rs. 500 for each session or you can buy a book of 10 class tickets for Rs. 3,500. http://www.brahmaniyoga.com/.

Harmonic Healing

Harmonic offers a distinctive range of healing and treatments in India on Patnem beach. Yoga shalas and massage cabanas give you an amazing view of blue sea Apart from yoga, they offer other unique workshops in classical Indian singing, Bollywood dancing, Pilates, Byron Katie, Louise Hay, Conscious Breath, Bowen, Tarot and also have an onsite Chiropractor! Frankly, I have never heard some of these names and had to google to get insight on them. But its wonderful that learning on such unique subjects is now accessible in India.

They host yoga retreats as well and details are available on their website. Each activity is priced seperately and yoga classes start at Rs. 200. One observation was that the healing therapies seemed excellent value for money.  They don't offer accommodation onsite but give you options to stay in the vicinity. http://www.harmonicingoa.com/.

Satsanga Retreat

Satsanga Retreat is situated in the village of Verla Canca, located near Mapusa. They offer an array of yoga retreats and training programs taught by teachers from around the world. Satsanga Retreat is family-run and has onsite rooms with en-suite facilities. Every teacher prices retreats individually and the center can be contacted for room pricing. http://www.satsangaretreat.com/

P.S. - I am a novice at yoga and have never visited any of the above yoga centers. Incase you decide to go, please do further research on the center and teachers. As most of the retreats attract westerners, they are open only during the busy season in Goa (November-April) .

"All travel is spiritual practice. Every destination we travel toward is a sacred place - because everywhere we stand is holy ground. " - Paul Jenkins

India Wishlist

During school vacations, there was always a family holiday in India. We traveled to the northern states in summer vacations and south India during diwali holidays. As I grew older, we started going overseas and long haul travel within India diminished.

 I regret to say that in the past decade I havent really been around India. Yes, I have been to Goa and a few Indian metros, if someone can give me brownie points ! My last years trip to the Kumaon region has simulated me to explore India further. I wish to re-visit the same states with my family, but with a twist. Here are a few places on my wish list.....


1.   Tracking the tigers on foot at Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh.

This is a newly opened national park in Madhya Pradesh is 1400 Sq.Km in area. The wildlife is diverse with tigers (supposedly 44 !), leopard, chital, nilgai, bison, wild boar, wild dog, fox, porcupine and black buck antelope and the park has an an excellent variety of birds. There are backwater boat safaris and elephant safaris for spotting game. This is also one of the few parks in India which permits walking safaris inside the park. Currently, the tourist numbers are low which makes games viewing exclusive. I think it could be the next big thing. Its easy access to Bhopal airport and the trip can be combined with the nearby Pachmarhi hillstation. The best place to stay is Forsyth Lodge. http://www.forsythlodge.com/

2. Stay in a Tree House at Wayanad, Kerala.

Wayanad is a verdant hill station is full of plantations, forests and wildlife. Most resorts and homestays here offer the unique experience of staying a treehouse. I personally think its Indias best "eco-retreat" . Wayanad is 100 km from Calicut (now Kozhikode). Its an excellent combo trip alongwith popular sibling Coorg. I have been wanting to stay in the treehouse at Tranquil Resort in Wayanad since quite sometime.  It’s a homestay within a 400 acre private coffee and spices plantation, nestled within the remote and lush rainforests. http://tranquilresort.com/ . A value for money  homestay option is Cheeral Green Homestay http://www.cheeralgreenhomestay.com/.

3. Get spiritual on the beaches of Gokarna, Karnataka

Gokarna lies on the southernmost border of Karnataka adjoining the state of Goa and is a sleepy village around a holy Ganesh temple, a pond and a beach. But it is also the gateway to some of the most untouched and beautiful beaches of India.The most famous and favoured among the beaches is Om Beach which gets its name from its unique shape in the form of the symbol Om. There is upmarket SwaSwara, which is owned by the CGH group http://www.swaswara.com/ . Otherwise, Om beach resort is very popular and gets the job done http://www.ombeachresort.com/.

4. Get trapped by the mountains in Sangla Valley, Kinnaur District, Himachal Pradesh.

Get surrounded by the mountains in Sangla Valley. Tucked away in the Eastern most Himachal Pradesh, bordering Garhwal and Tibet, lies Kinnaur. The Sangla river is the biggest tributary of Satluj and flows through Kinnaur carving the Sangla valley. Nearly 3,000 metres up and a short drive from Chitkul, the Sangla is last village on the old India-Tibet trade route. Its presents an enchanting experience where you see the confluence of Hindusim and Buddhism. This is not easy to get to - its four hours from Shimla but the views more than make up for it. I dont know many places to stay in Sangla as yet, but Kinner camp was interesting http://www.kinnercamps.com/. There should be plenty of village guest houses stays available.

5.  Glamping in the Thar Desert, Rajasthan.

Luxury tented camps have become the hippest way of experiencing deserts. Mountains, deserts or jungles, the  glamping culture has definetly taken off !! These camps are largely eco sensitive and built by local workers using local materials, the camps are a relatively guilt-free way to enjoy the tranquillity of the desert. As “glamping” culture is spreading across the world, many such camps have sprung up in Rajasthan, especially around Jaisalmer. The Manvar camp is an excellent value for money option. http://www.manvar.com/camp.htm but if you want to splurge its definetly the Serai http://www.the-serai.com/index.html.

Most of these destinatons offer accomodation ranging from budget to luxury. If you need specific suggestions, please write to me.

“People travel to faraway places to watch, in fascination, the kind of people they ignore at home.” – Dagobert D. Runes

Destination Prerequisities

When it comes to selecting my destinations, I get quirky. I have a bias for serene places that are far and away from the clutter of the modern world. I have a few prequisities which I use as scanners....

1. I prefer if my Gujrati folks have never heard about my slice of paradise, and should ideally think that I am the biggest looser by going there. If they ask me "Why on earth would you go there  ?" then bingo !! I made the right choice !!
2. Wherever you go, there should be a fear of getting robbed, bitten by insects, and get ripped off or haggled.  Most of the time nothing will actually happen. When you're back, you will love the fact that you stepped out of your comfort zone.
3. Ideally you need to change multiple flights or take several modes of transport before reaching there. After reaching the final airport or station; there should be a long scenic drive or a ferry to a neighbouring island to arrive at the point of rest. 
4. The trail should be a road full of potholes or a long dirt road to keep unenthusiasts away.
5. Staying at international hotel chains is a NO-NO. I prefer boutique hotels and homestays. If theres a Subway, Mcdonalds or Dominos I might as well go to Linking Road in Mumbai !!!
6. I need to see mountains, oceans or any waterbody from my bed. Actually from my bathroom as well.

7. If people dont speak English, its definetly more exotic. I love to see that feeling of shock when people dont understand you. Its often followed by an exchange of smiles.
8. Beautiful countryside and laidback feel is my thing rather than skyscrapers,traffic lights and dressy people .
9. I love to try food which I cant possibly identify with and believe that the tastiest food in the world is made on streets.  
10. Shopping should be in souks, bazaars or flea markets. Bargaining and haggling help you in developing interpersonal and negotiation skills.
11. Adventure, adventure and more adventure.
12.  Whereever I go there should be an inherent feeling that I can live there for the rest of my life. If I feel homesick, I will never go there again.
    
    

Writing this reminds me of  a village I stayed in the Himalayas called Alai. It was isolated - no electricity or  roads. It was a two hour uphill hike from the nearest motorable road. There were only around ten homes in the village but still an open air school not very far. It overlooked rice paddies and was surrounded by pine forests with stunning mountain scenery. At sunset the children were singing, dancing and playing in the verandah. A  traditional "Bokhari" - wood-burning stove - kept us warm. Fresh vegetables were handpicked from the garden to prepare the meals and cooking was done using firewood. Aaaahhhh......Why cant I forget that dinner under the moonlight :)

What are your prerequisities when you decide to go somewhere ? Please comment :-)

“It is not down in any map; true places never are.” – Herman Melville

Travel terminology made easy

The future of travel will not be the all-in-one trip including everything from sightseeing, nightlife, adventure, spa, shopping and relaxation. People are increasingly looking for mission specific and experiential holidays. They want blend their hobbies along with their travels. Unfortunately, this is making travel terminology more complicated....Here are a few terms that I have discovered lately......


Babymoon

"One last romantic trip" taken by an expecting couple before the big arrival. Pre-baby getaways are a growing trend in tourism, as many operators are tailoring packages specifically for expectant couples. Almost all major resort chains are offiering special babymoon packages which may include fruit mocktails, pregnancy massages and courses to learn special recipes for children. For luxury pre-birth getaways check:
http://www.baby-moon.eu/

Couchsurfing

CouchSurfing is an arrangement where people offer up their spare bed or couch to globe trotters. The idea is to save money while building friendships between people across the world and adding a personal touch to travel. Its an international non-profit network that connects travelers with locals in over 230 countries and territories around the world. Its completely free and no monetary exchange takes place. Sign up on http://www.couchsurfing.org/

Narco-Tourist

 A traveller, who bases his or her destination upon the indigenous drug scene. These guys are looking for tons of inexpensive pot, lenient laws, easily bribed police, and beautiful scenery. Consider Netherlands, Columbia, India, Mexico, Ethiopia, Jamaica, Laos to be major hubs. Checkout http://www.webehigh.com/  a worldwide drug sourcing guide.

Sex Tourism

We all know about this already. Popular destinations are Brazil, Cuba, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Jamaica, Kenya, Netherlands, Russia, Philippines, Sri Lanka and Thailand. No weblinks for this one :-)

Sightjogging

 The healthy art of sightseeing whilst running or cycling. Sightseeing a city while running or cycling is very popular with tourists in many European cities. Now several Asian & American cities are catching up. There will be one in Mumbai soon. An excellent website which offers details of running tours in cities across the world is http://www.globalrunningtours.com/ .For sight seeing day trips by bicycle when in Paris,London,Berlin and Barcelona check out http://fattirebiketours.com/

Glamping

Glamping (Glamorous + Camping), a newly coined word that combines images more often considered opposites. Imagine a tent setup somewhere in African savannah or in the deserts of Rajasthan. Instead of an uncomfortable sleeping bag and creepy crawlers, the tent is equipped with pillow-top bedding, cotton sheets, pillows and a flannel duvet, a table and four chairs, a cordless lantern, storage, and bath linens. Gourmet meals are prepared and served with the finest wines. Check out http://goglamping.net/  for glamping grounds across the world.

Greypackers

 Older generation or retired travellers who a step away from run of the mill tours and are ready to take the road less travelled.

Partypackers

Partypackers don't mind which country they travel to as long as the booze keeps flowing, there is trance and there is dance. Lots of cafes, restaurants and beaches make ideal destinations alongside tabletop dancers, fetish gear and glitz. They don't do temples, they don't do cathedrals, and they don't do mornings. There are dedicated party tours along with VIP access and front line priviliges to  Rio, Ibiza, Greece, Buenos Aires. http://www.toursgonewild.com/

If you know of any other, please feel free to share them. Happy travels :-)

“Travel is glamorous only in retrospect.” – Paul Theroux